Needless to say, the construction of new barns and indoor riding arenas are major capital investments, and they should be built to last. Everyone loves and appreciates the look and feel of a brand new barn or facility – all clean, nothing damaged, marred, broken or failing.
How long should a new building last and remain in great shape? Ten to twenty years is simply not long enough to get a good return on your investment, or to avoid costly and aggravating repairs and maintenance. At the very minimum, newly constructed facilities need to last 40 years or longer, according to Dale Barnett, Equine Coordinator at Murray State University located in Murray, Kentucky. “Buildings should ideally only be replaced in order to be upgraded on an as want to basis, and not because one has to in order to keep operating efficiently and safely.”
Site Location and Drainage
Barnett, who is a former partner in a construction company in Austin, Texas which specialized in metal building construction, says there are many issues to consider and watch out for when designing, selecting and building new facilities. One concern not taken seriously enough is to make sure the owner chooses an appropriate site location with adequate drainage. “Please don’t build now with the intention of addressing drainage issues later. It doesn’t always happen, and isn’t always possible as planned.” Properly maintain surrounding paddocks, lawns and roadways – keep all drainage open, do remove undesirable silt buildup and gravel coming from roads that erode into drainage paths around buildings. “Do not cut corners on downspouts and underground drainage tiles and pipes. Over time these can become insufficient, becoming difficult to maintain and clean out.”
When selecting a site to build, people often look at how it fits in with existing structures, roads, and utilities. “Ideally, the arenas and barns will be constructed where it will be best located due to the lay of the land, and to contribute to the efficiency of the operation. You don’t want the new barn miles away from the turnout paddocks or the arena, but don’t want it in a low area either.” Elevate the building site, Barnett advises. “I recommend elevating six to twelve inches above what is typically recommended. Buildings can settle over time. Stalls can settle, roadways and surrounding paddocks can elevate or change (redirecting the water flow) as materials are added intentionally, or unintentionally (due to erosion, accumulation of silt, etc.), and as they are used and worn.”
According to Dr. Bob Mowrey, Horse Extension Specialist at North Carolina State University, the builder also needs to check zoning regulations, and the types of permits needed. “Even if you plan to only have one local public event a year, some counties require both men’s and women’s bathrooms as well as the bathrooms being handicapped accessible,” Mowrey explains. “Agricultural buildings with living quarters usually require a building permit. Also, the type of insurance and insulation used is different with barns that have living quarters. Each county’s requirements are different and need to be checked through the local government permit office.”
Mowrey also adds, “It would be a good idea to consult the Cooperative Extension Services office. The Cooperative Extension System is a nationwide educational network. Each U.S. state and territory has a state office at its land-grant university and a network of local or regional offices.” According to their website (www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension), these offices employ professionals who provide information to agricultural producers, small business owners, youth, consumers, and others in rural areas and communities of all sizes.
Also, consult your Natural Resources Conservation Service Office (NRCS), Barnett recommends. “This is a free service available to you in your county. Take advantage of their expertise and free services. They can help you with site selection, preparation, and drainage and excavation issues and concerns.” Barnett also adds that people need to visit other facilities before building. “See what works and what doesn’t work. Ask around and find out who is the best in your area to do your site preparation. Find out who can properly excavate to create the desired drainage. Just because someone owns/operates a dozer, doesn’t mean they are a pro at this – their specialty might be cutting flat, level roads and not in working with the lay of the land and drainage.”
Metal Building and Roofing
Metal is not necessarily superior to other materials. Quality and thickness, the paint/coating, the installation, and the application are the limiting factors, Barnett explains. “Metal roofs are only as good as the person that installs them. Metal wall and roofing panels come in different thicknesses measured and referred to in gauges. Just as a 12-gauge shotgun shoots larger, more powerful shot than does a 20-gauge shotgun, the smaller the gauge of metal panels, the thicker and stronger the material. The thinner the material, the cheaper the material costs. Be sure to get what you pay for. Be aware of builders that may sell you one product, but then use a thinner, cheaper product to increase their profit margin. Also, make sure you compare apples to apples when pricing barn/building packages. A barn using 18 gauge wall and roofing panels is obviously going to be more costly than is one built using 24 gauge materials that is half the thickness. Make sure you don’t opt for a cheaper package that may not end up lasting or performing as expected.”
Mowrey also adds, “Roof pitch is also very important depending upon where you live. If you have a lot of ice storms, then it may be wise to have a steeper roof pitch so the ice will be more likely to slide off and not remain on the roof for extended periods of time.”
Most warranties on roofing and wall panels are for the coating/finish only. A separate warranty must be obtained to guarantee workmanship and performance. Some products may come with no materials or finish warranty, while others may have a 10, 20 or even a longer 40-year warranty on the finish only. Again, Barnett warns you get what you pay for. “Be aware that construction flaws/damage negates a coating/finish warranty. Know that a 20-year roof may only be guaranteeing the finish, and that it may not guarantee workmanship and against leaks. Do not accept a damaged roof upon completion of construction. Have a third party inspect the roof to check for dents, crinkles, scratches and for other possible damage to the panels or finish that would negate a materials warranty claim. Have the roof additionally inspected to make sure it is properly installed regarding the fasteners, seams and seals for anything that could lead to subsequent failure and leaks,” Barnett adds. “Be sure to also secure a satisfactory warranty for workmanship. Reputable builders will generally stand behind a ten-year workmanship warranty against leaks and failed performance. An even better builder will proudly stand behind a 20-year workmanship guarantee. You need to get everything in writing.”
Tying into an existing roof, or adding structures to existing buildings and roofs requires not only a high degree of skill, but a high degree of care from the contractor, Barnett says. He also advises to never go back and add something to an existing roof. “Foot traffic that is unavoidable during add-ons guarantees stress to seams, seals and fasteners and results in subsequent roof leaks on down the road (maybe not during the next rain, but after a few years when the contractor is long gone) – especially if the roof is made from lighter-gauge panels to start with.”
Metal Siding
Metal siding can’t handle direct contact and/or abuse, Barnett explains. “The contractor must install fences, panels, rails, bollards, bumpers, etc. to keep horses and equipment from coming in contact with the walls; or use concrete or wooden walls at the lower elevations that can handle the abuse. The thinner the gauge of material, the easier they dent up and fail. Metal panels installed directly at ground level are subject to rusting out quickly from contact with water, urine, and manure.” According to Barnett, one solution is to construct concrete footers to extend above ground level, construct lower walls out of concrete or wood and also not use metal panels at lower elevations.
Gutter seams that leak can cause splashing against lower wall panels, cause discoloration, and accelerate their failure, Barnett mentions. “Gutter seam leaks cannot be easily caulked or remedied. They must be properly cleaned, power-washed, dried, primed, and then have an elastomeric caulk applied that can withstand UV light and the heating, and the freezing & thawing that will occur over the following years.” Barnett adds, “One solution to this problem is to install seamless gutters and acquire a long-term workmanship guarantee from the contractor for the gutters to protect against failure.”
Roof Insulation
Over time, many barns and covered arenas have insulation that starts falling down, Barnett warns. “It then becomes a place for birds to roost, and it is often associated with roof and water leaks.” Barnett advises people to obtain a long-term roof workmanship warranty which is often not included in material warranties. Barnett adds, “Keep everybody off your roof after it is properly installed and inspected. Use only rigid types of insulation that cannot sag, fall or tear apart like cotton-candy over time; or have a wire mesh/screen applied on the underside of the insulation to provide additional support and long-term integrity.” Jerry McClain of McClain Construction, in Murray, KY highly recommends “double bubble foil” insulation panels or a recommended rigid foam insulation board.
Wood, Post and Beam Construction
There are many questions that need to be considered when working with wood, Barnett says. Should wood be set in concrete? How do you go about preventing termites? How do you prevent moisture concerns over time? What type of lumber should be used? Should it be treated? How and with what? Are laminated beams okay? These are all questions to ask local experts familiar with your building conditions for where you live.
Jerry McClain answers many of these questions regarding post and beam construction. “The most commonly used wood is pressure treated pine but, again, find out what is best recommended and available in your area. Laminate beams are great and are sometimes preferred over regular posts because laminate will not twist over time. Wood should be set in concrete,” McClain explains. “Before setting in concrete, the bottom of the posts should be sprayed with a termite-resistant spray. The posts should then be wrapped with coil stock (can be found at any lumber supply company) from the bottom of the post up to at least 6” above ground level. If these steps are not taken, posts set in the ground cannot be expected to have maximum longevity due to termite and moisture concerns.”
Barnett adds, “All construction with wood should, of course, be done to prevent any opportunities for chewing or cribbing, must be safe, and should still look great inside years down the road. Materials should be substantial – not too thin when it comes to walls and doors; horses are powerful and have been known to kick through a wooden door or wall with fatal outcomes.” Barnett also says, “Doors, gates, hinges and latches – all hardware needs to be substantial as well; stall bars need to be substantial – don’t cut corners! Build for easy cleaning and avoid ledges, areas for birds to nest, spiders to thrive, and dust to collect.”
Stalls, Aisleway, Wash Pit, Feed Room, and Tack Room Construction
A lot of people build a barn, and then worry about the stalls after the builder has left. Barnett explains in detail in the following paragraphs the step by step process of designing your stalls.
The ideal thing to do is to prepare the base and the drainage for the stalls during the site preparation and before the barn construction begins. Over time, urine will accumulate if not properly addressed up front. Over time, soil properties will change and drainage of urine from stalls may be greatly deterred. Some people may want a hard-packed clay stall that they will line with solid stall mats before using. Personally, I want a stall base that will drain, and even take that urine/moisture away from the building as necessary. Urine produces ammonia. Ammonia is an irritant to the lungs/respiratory system that leads to respiratory disease and problems. Stalls that drain, and barns that are well-ventilated help to alleviate such problems from unnecessarily occurring.
Regarding aisleways and feed rooms – do you want them above, below, or level with the stall floors? Are you using a flooring system such as Hunt Club’s “Stall Grid” in the stalls, and paver bricks in the aisle, or is it going to be paved (porous asphalt is a possibility) or concreted (not left smooth or slick we hope!). Do you plan to be power washing, and not want the water trapped in the stalls? Do you plan to be disinfecting your stalls regularly? Will the floors be slick, or have water on them? If so, will it freeze? Are the stalls going to settle over time? Most importantly, what is the relationship of the aisle elevation and the stall elevation to the outside of the building? Solution: It is always smart to elevate feed room and tack room floors if you plan to be using water to clean floors and walls inside of a barn.
Mowrey recommends the stalls to be at least 12 feet by 12 feet. He does not recommend using porous asphalt in the South unless the roof is insulated because the floor will be sticky from condensation. The ideal width of an aisle way should be between 12 and 16 feet in width and a minimum of 10ft in height in order to get large loads of hay into the barn and for the safety of horses as well. He explains that it would be smart to put metal grills over any wood to also help prevent chewing in the stall. Mowrey also prefers stall mats to cut down on labor and bedding costs.
Maintenance Concerns
What’s this building going to look like in 10, 20, or 40 years? Is it going to hold up? Still look good? Still be safe? Still be functional and efficient?
Is it going to collect dust, or attract birds and spider webs easily? Can it be easily cleaned? Avoid ledges and places for things undesirable to collect. Is the roof insulation going to stay in place indefinitely? Are the wall panels going to be protected from horses, tractors, moisture and urine, etc.?
Can the inside be power washed? Disinfected? Will it drain away from tack room and office floors when power washed or disinfected?
Plan, implement properly and think long-term in your planning. Above all, get what you pay for and build it to last.
Educational Opportunities
Extension Horse Husbandry conducts an ongoing 4-H youth and adult educational program through county extension agents and horse commodity groups in association with North Carolina State. On February 26th and 27th, Dr. Mowrey will be teaching a Horse Facility Management Short Course and also a Business Management Short Course. For people interested in finding out more about these courses and seminars please go to www.cals.ncsu.edu. Also, please check with your local university equine programs for other possible seminars or courses in your area.
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